Jordan Photos

There's an obligatory one of the Treasury in Petra, with camels, the Monastery in Petra, a general one of Petra (guess where most of our photos were taken!) and sunset at the Dead Sea...

Jordan Jollies!

Beirut seems to have survived our absence remarkably well and in fact, seems to be progressing towards some sort of agreement on the political way forward. Clearly we need to leave the country more often! Leading figures from both sides - Saad Hariri (son of Rafik, the PM assassinated 2 years ago) and Nabih Berri (Leading Shia figure who is also the Speaker of Parliament and often speaks for the opposition - he is the link to Hezbollah who Western governments can talk to) have met a few times now and seem to have found some common ground.

In the meantime, we had a great time in Jordan. Photos will be put up - and will probably be ahead of this post, but as is often the case, photos can never do justice to the beauty of the country and particularly the magnificence that is Petra. There is a lot of desert in Jordan, and much of the country is featureless and stony. However, when it is green, and when you are at the Dead Sea, or in Petra, it is stunning. We spent two nights in Petra - taking part in a 'Petra by candlenight' trip which was very atmospheric. Our one day in Petra was not enough - there is so much more to see and do than you can achieve in just one visit but I certainly will be returning. We also spent one day at the Dead Sea and one in Amman (very new and very low rise - quite a shock after Beirut!). Today we came back via Jerash, a Roman city that is pretty intact, and pretty impressive with lots of colonades and temples in particular.

Many people in Jordan speak good English. However I was not to be deterred from practising my Arabic, especially as I am currently mastering the past tense and wanted to tell unsuspecting locals what I had done. I was rewarded by some comprehension and the comment that "you speak with a Lebanese accent"! Success at last!

As it is not peak season we often had the sights to ourselves. Mind you, it is not peak season for a reason. As I type the rain is lashing down and the wind is howling round our flat. Great weather conditions for Dom's parents who arrive on Thursday!

Petra here we come!

I am most excited today. Tomorrow Dom and I are off to Jordan for 6 days. We are visiting Petra, the Dead Sea, Amman, Madaba and Jerash. So a fix of stunning architecture, incredible ruins and historic sites is guaranteed. Like most people would, I imagine, I am looking forward to seeing the Treasury at Petra the most. But there are many other incredible sights to see there. Hopefully we'll reach Petra in time to do the 'Petra by night' tour as well tomorrow.

We'll also be away for a couple of potentially key dates in Lebanon. The 8th and 11th March. 8th March 2005 is when Hezbollah held a rally countering the demonstrations calling for the withdrawal of Syria, 14 March was the largest rally to date in Lebanon (I think), where approximately 1 million people demonstrated to reiterate their wish for Syrian troops to withdraw from Lebanon. Since then, 8 March and 14 March have become nicknames for two of the opposing political sides in Lebanon. 11 March, which I mention above, is a new movement which says it is non-political, and is also calling for some sort of demonstration on that day to say 'enough'. Both sides have their supporters and although there seems to be some sort of deal being touted in the press, it hasn't been agreed yet. Saying all that, 14 February, the commemoration of Hariri's assassination passed off peacefully (despite everyone's fears to the contrary, including mine), and life has, once more, returned pretty much to normal. (Incidentally if any of those facts are wrong, feel free to correct me - I am trying to synthasise very complicated events into a couple of sentences!).

I am always amazed and humbled by people's ability to function normally at times of such tension. Many people are very worried, of course, and friends of mine are applying for long term residency visas of countries such as the US, UK, Canada and Australia (and Dubai), but life goes on, businesses continue to hire, although it is difficult for many at the moment, and people still shop and enjoy themselves. My impressions are that although many people want to leave, they are happy to stay here as long as it remains peaceful - and I think it puts many of the problems we think we have in the UK in perspective.

I am continuing to work as a freelancer, which I enjoy as it gives me the freedom to do many other things - this week I have been to the National Museum (highly recommended) and to a birthday party for a 2 year old! Next week sees the arrival of Dom's parents, and we are beginning to plan where to take them. And then a few weeks after that, my parents arrive. So it's all systems go!