Alexandria and Beirut

Dom here. First of all I am obviously an idiot for losing the camera! And I have been told this a few times. But yes we have pics of the boat trip courtesy of friends and Fi is deliberately no putting them up yet to let me stew - she will do it soon. And we will be getting a new camera next weekend so normal service will be resumed.

Since that day we had a good day out on the beach at Tyre - gorgeous and unpolluted - and last weekend I went to Alexandria for a reunion with some Uni mates. It was very interesting - as well as fun - to go back. We spent, predictably, every night in the Spitfire Bar drinking Stella (no relation to the European stuff) and a new brew called Sakkara. Stella is no longer different colours and tastes with each bottle, and has been taken over by Amstel! It isn't the same when you are not playing Russian roulette with your stomach every time you have a drink! But on balance it is probably better. My picture though is no longer on the wall, although it remains on the wall of the Arabic language centre - my hairstyle was a disaster in those days!

2 major changes in Alex - the new library which is truly spectacular architechturally - if lacking many books! But an excellent exhibition there on Alexandria's history. Also a brand new museum in the city which again was excellent with a lot of pieces fished out of the Med in the last few years. But otherwise it is nearly exactly the same with unrepaired roads and pavements, falling down but gorgeous buildings - art deco stuff everywhere - and the lack of hassle which you get as a foreigner in Cairo and Luxor. A lot more tourists, including a cruise ship, and the usual relaxed and laid back vibe. The other major change was the increasing conservatism - we reckoned around 50% of women had the headscarf in the late 1980s and now it is probably over 90%. But then most of the posh people have moved to the suburbs so maybe it is a bit unfair to judge it on the city centre. But I struggle to understand how I spent 9 months of my life there all those years ago, pre email and mobiles and internet. Great to go back though.

A lot of similarities to Beirut in theory - seaports in the Eastern Med, great histories and cosmopolitan. Dare I say that Beirut has, despite everything, fared better? There is more cultural development here, more choice of things to do, and above all there is more freedom for everybody. A flawed democracy vs a 'benign' dictatorship, more women in business, better food and drink and better standards of living in general. I know where I am happier anyway..

One thing they dont have in Alex is bombs though, and as Fi notes we had one last week which killed another government MP. It was about 2 miles away from us and killed a few bystanders so fairly horrible, but sad to report we didn't even hear it as we were in the local shopping centre buying the Lonely Planet guide to Egypt! Focus has quickly moved back to the Presidential elections for which the process started today. The parliament seems to have met briefly this morning for the first time in nearly a year, then as they couldn't reach a 'quorum' of MPs the session has been postponed until October 23rd. Expect much jockeying before then.

Weather remains lovely - around 27 degrees - but we had a bit of rain the other day. But the real winter storms do not really start until November, although beach life is coming to an end soon.

Oh in case you are wondering, I am working from home. Best do some then..