Curfew!

In other news first, I went skiing today and completed my first red run! I also had a couple of falls and am nursing sore legs. This of course meant that I and my friends were out of town when the students at the Arab University started fighting. This took place in the south of the city but trouble spread to Basta (between Hamra or West Beirut and Achrafieh) and there were rumours of trouble in Achrafieh which thankfully were unfounded. All this meant that it was a bit of a fraught drive home as the mobile network was down (from over use).

The army has ordered a curfew tonight from 8.30pm to 6am tomorrow. In true Lebanese fashion there were a few people out after the curfew began (always fashionably late) but at the time of writing (10.30pm) it is very, very quiet indeed. Schools and Universities are closed tomorrow and I am sure many people will stay away from work. Hopefully these measures will calm tempers. However, it never ceases to amaze me how some people appear to have learnt nothing from the lessons of the civil war and seem determined to push Lebanon into conflict. Many of these students will have had parents who stayed in Lebanon during the civil war, and many of them are likely to have some memories of it from their childhood - so why start it all over again?

Also, rather worryingly, Sydney appears to be nesting again. We all know what happened last time she hatched a chick! Hopefully she is indeed a dove of peace and not a hawk!

Day of Tension

The National Strike was called today. Although the area we live in seemed to be operating as normal (cafes and supermarkets all open), others were virtually shut down. Many businesses told their staff not to come in as car tyres were being used as blockades and burnt. It was a lovely clear day at 7am, but soon you could see the acrid smoke begin to rise above the city - and smell it too. It's pretty much dispersed now though.

Trouble started early on - in Beirut and in other areas - mainly ones with a mix of Sunni and Shia. There was a bit of pushing and shoving at a few key road arteries - near the port, near dog river and at Chataura, the nearest big town to the border with Syria. Then it seemed to go quite quiet and we went out for lunch!! (As I said, the cafes were open and doing pretty well near us). We weren't as cool as a group of Germans who were happily sitting out in the sunshine drinking beer, however!!

As it got dark, it has got a bit more tense. Friends of mine in Hamra who were intending to come over have reported that the road to Downtown is blocked, cars cannot cross at the moment and that there have been a few skirmishes on most routes. As another indication of nerves, all bars in Gemayzeh (the main drinking drag) are shut! This is quite rare...

Latest news is that the opposition are not going to continue the protests tomorrow - a lot of people seem to be talking. But for the two people who died today, it's too little, too late.

Skiing, Trips and Buses in the Bekaa!

It's been a very relaxing and (relatively) healthy week as befits the beginning of January. Quiet nights in and book reading have been the order of the day. The city is quite quiet too - I went to meet my friends for lunch today and the roads were even quieter than usual for a Sunday. It is rumoured that the boycotting of Ministries and other activities will increase/finish (depending on who you speak to) by January 25th which is also the day of Paris III - the third attempt at getting Lebanon out of the financial quagmire it has found itself in. Although to be fair, the last 6 months weren't entirely the government's fault... It was 6 months ago yesterday that the war started - it's gone so quickly and to many people, me included, that whole time now seems really surreal. I would imagine that in no small part it's down to the fact that I was personally very unaffected by the war. I'm very lucky to live in part of Beirut that wasn't really hit by the bombs. Many people are still trying to repair their houses, or sell them, or move out of the southern suburbs of the city. Many people in the south are still trying to rebuild their homes and live with the constant threat of cluster bombs.

Tomorrow I'm off to the Sursock museum - possibly the Lebanese equivalent to the Victoria and Albert museum in London - that has just reopened after closing during the war. I am hoping that this one does not have the interminable exhibition of wrought-iron gates that I once had the misfortune to get lost in with Siobhan and is more enjoyable. The National Museum here is also exhibiting a recently received Bronze age painting that I am planning to go and see.

On a more modern note, the Bekaa valley, famous for its vineyards, its agricultural produce and its wetlands that attract many migrating birds (when they are not being shot by hunters) also has a rather unusual attraction (see above)... Dom was in the Bekaa today for lunch and thought it made a good photo!

We've also been skiing and I can proudly report that I am a triumph of speed over style and grace! Sadly that also means taking a couple of tumbles; once when Dom nearly sent me down a black run (possibly after my life insurance???!?) and once when a small child knocked me over (no doubt sent by Dom to try and claim the life insurance for a second time)! Apart from that it was a great day out and the weather was really sunny and warm. Long may the ski season continue!

One Year Today!!

It's one year today since we arrived in Beirut! One year ago we arrived late at night and, on venturing out to buy some water, were slightly alarmed by the number of tanks and soldiers parked near our flat. Now of course, we are completely used to Armed Personnel Carriers, tanks, soldiers, Lebanese Special Forces, UN troops, military aircraft, gunships, helicopters, bombs and evacuations!

We were also slightly taken aback by the riots in February... all very small fry when compared to the events of the summer.

And we were surprised by the level of political debate and vociferous opinions offered by the majority of Lebanese at any time whether it be in the hairdressers, the supermarket or the Service Taxi. As I've posted recently, I've detected a certain amount of disillusionment amongst some people, even the ones who were desparately in favour of change 10 months ago. Saying that, the protests in Downtown are continuing and are apparently increasing today - there is talk of some protestors blockading the VAT office. The leaders of the opposition movement say that it is all peaceful and so far nothing has happened to contradict them. It certainly feels peaceful here and the main inconvenience remains crossing the city to West Beirut. There was an article in today's Daily Star (thankfully nothing like Britain's Daily Star although some of the journalism also leaves a lot to be desired) about how some businesses are forbidding talk of politics on their premises.

Personally, one year on I find myself in a very similar position to last year... sending off my CV to various contacts in the hope of getting part time work! However, my Arabic is improving, I can now ski, and I have as busy a social life as I did in London! Tonight we're off to celebrate our anniversary with that traditional Lebanese meal of... curry - well, we haven't had one for ages and Lebanon is famous for its international cuisine...