Guest writer 3 - Beirut back to normal??

Hello everyone it is Dom here. I got back to Beirut on Monday through a very tiring and adventurous route which I don't even want to think about doing again. The annoying thing is that I could have flown direct from London if I had waited 3 days. Oh well...

I have returned alone sadly, but it is looking like Fi will be coming back in a week or so, as things are incredibly back to normal - in our part of Beirut at least.

The Lebanese have an amazing capacity for enjoyment at a very difficult time, and have been out celebrating the lifting of the air and sea blockades in a very big way. I went to one of my favourite bars on Friday - in Gemmayzeh (described recently as the Shoreditch of Beirut - but to the best of my knowledge without the strip bars!), and could barely get in the doors. I was then persuaded by the fine bartender to drink several peach daiquaries (it's yellow, fruity and makes you look very gay!) on top of quite a few wines earlier on - so consequently had the mother of all hangovers on Saturday.
But I am sure you are not interested in all that. What's happening out there? Well there is quite a bit of political debate and anger over whose fault it all is, and Hizbullah seem to be relatively contrite. Israel though remains public enemy number one. Olmert seems to be making overtures to the Lebanese government but I can't see these are anything but attempts to save his own skin - there is no way the Lebanese could accept any kind of peace in the current climate.
Shiploads of foreign troops are arriving. Still not that quickly but it really doesn't seem likely that there will be another outbreak of fighting - perhaps a few incidents. The shops are starting to fill up again - fresh fish and milk are back! I had a spaghetti marinara at an italian place last night which was delicious. The traffic is a bit crazy again, and there is plenty of petrol though only 95 and not 98 (I am no expert but 98 is posher petrol which is better for the car..). The weather is gorgeous and I have been sitting on my balcony. A lot of weddings which were cancelled in the war are now taking place resulting in lots of convoys of hooting cars. I went to a rooftop bar last night for a couple - the sort of place which I am getting too old for as the music was way too loud!! It was so busy we could not initially get in - and served the weakest mojito I have had for a while. Today I have been sorting out the flat which was a tip - mainly as we packed everything up ready to go for good and now have to unpack it.
The destroyed bridges remain a problem although the army has been very quick to build diversions so what was 90 minutes of delay going north is now 30 minutes.
I am back at work and mainly just speaking to people and getting a feel for the mood. It is very mixed - there has been a big brain drain and it is too early to say whether these young talented people which Lebanon needs will come back. Some bars (Paddys) have closed for good - he is selling up and returned to Dublin! I am seeing the Ministry of Tourism this week so will get an idea what they are planning. Lebanon needs the big-spending Gulfis to come back for Ramadan (in about 2-3 weeks) - a bit early I think although they might come back for the festival at the end of Ramadan (23-24 October). They will still have a better time here than in the west where they get so much trouble with security. But Lebanon needs to broaden its base beyond tourism and banking now - and people are asking what is the point if Israel is going to trash it every few years? The Hizbullah issue needs to be solved within a couple of years - the international forces will not stay for ever. But meanwhile the priority is getting Lebanon moving and working again.

As for me - well it is a bit of a weird life as very few of my Brit or Lebanese friends are here. I had a drink with Fadi and Mayssoun last week and others have come back in the last few days. I am missing Fi who seems to be enjoying London - even without me! But the Canadians have now relaxed their travel advice and I am sure we are mulling ours. Next weekend I hope to travel around the country a bit to have a look at what is going on - but for now the happy news is that Beirut is coming back to life again, and it is great to be back.